Mold and Illness
by: Ben Hermsen
Molds and fungus are nearby virtually everywhere we go. For the most part these molds are relatively innocuous. Certain molds, however, do pose substantial health risks. According to Berlin D. Nelson, Ph.D., department of plant pathology, North Dakota State University, Stachybotrys Chartarum or “black mold” is the most prominent and notorious of the toxic molds (1).
Black mold is a heavy producer of mycotoxins (toxins created by a fungus). These mycotoxins cause a wide range of symptoms from headaches to flu-like symptoms, and chronic illnesses. The mycotoxins created by black mold are numerous, but fall into 3 main categories: Macrocyclic Trichothecenes, which inhibit protein synthesis; Phenylspirodrimanes and Cyclsporine, which are strong immunosuppressive agents; and Stachylysin, which can lyse erythrocytes (destroy red blood cells). With all three groups present there is little wonder why mycotoxicosis (mycotoxin poisoning) caused by black mold can lead to severe degradation in human health.
Black mold has also been linked to “sick building syndrome”, which describes situations in which the health and comfort of people is effected by time spent in a certain building or room, where there is no obvious cause.
Unless you experience symptoms that seem to be location dependant you probably don’t need to worry too much for the time being. However, mold spores, which are benign by themselves and found practically everywhere, can propogate wildly active colonies when exposed to an amply moist environment.
This effect is very common with flooding, which is why it is of pressing importance to ensure that a flooded house is cleaned up and dried out thoroughly before mold is allowed to proliferate. In the case that you are experiencing chronic symptoms in your home or work environment, the best course of action is to contact a professional that knows how to seek and eliminate fungal growth.
Another health concern with mold and fungus stems from foam. Polyurethane foam, which is the type of foam commonly used in cushion and bedding applications, can be broken down by mold into volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are toxic.
Dr T. James Sprott, OBE, Msc, PhD, FNZIC, In New Zealand, discovered that this was a major contributor to sudden infant death syndrome (SIDS), where used crib mattresses were the culprits (2). Though the effects in adults usually go unidentified you may find that you feel better when you aren’t exposed to them.
The solution for crib mattresses was a simple layer of plastic completely covering the entire thing, not so practical for adults. This is a major reason not to buy used mattresses, which often have mold already growing in them, besides the other obvious factors (what did those previous owners do in that bed?).
To prevent mold from building up in your mattress it is good to use a mattress pad which is washable and will absorb most of the moisture that would be going to perpetuate mold growth. It is best, however, to simply buy a mattress that doesn’t create a suitable environment for mold or other microbes, such as latex.
Latex is a natural product that provides a superb sleep system that will keep your bed free of mold and other harmful microbes. Mold will always be around, and will always be a health concern. It is by familiarizing ourselves with mold, it’s indications, and it’s environment that we are able to minimize the risk that it will effect our lives.
Resources:
(1) http://www.apsnet.org/online/feature/stachybotrys/
(2) http://www.pnc.com.au/~cafmr/sprott/
About The Author
Ben Hermsen is a research engineer for http://www.foamsource.com where he champions the benefits of natural latex bedding for the health of our families and our environment.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Detecting Mold-Mold Prevention Tips
Moisture and Mold Prevention Tips
* When water leaks or spills occur indoors - ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
* Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
* Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
* Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
* Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
* If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.
Actions that will help to reduce humidity
* Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
* Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
* Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.
Actions that will help prevent condensation
* Reduce the humidity.
* Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
* Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
* Increase air temperature.
The best mold prevention tips are the ones above and from time to time do a check of the entire premises, at least twice a year.
* When water leaks or spills occur indoors - ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
* Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
* Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
* Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
* Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
* If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.
Actions that will help to reduce humidity
* Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
* Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
* Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.
Actions that will help prevent condensation
* Reduce the humidity.
* Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
* Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
* Increase air temperature.
The best mold prevention tips are the ones above and from time to time do a check of the entire premises, at least twice a year.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Detecting Mold-Detecting Attic Mold
Got Attic Mold? Lets Talk Energy Conservation!
by: Mark D. Tyrol, P.E.
It happens to countless homeowners around the end of the year – you make the annual visit to your attic to collect the holiday decorations and what do you find? Spots and blotches covering the bottom of the roof sheathing. Worse yet – it turns out to be attic mold!
What does energy conservation have to do with mold in the attic? Well if you take a step back and consider how the house behaves as system, they are often directly related.
Building science experts have long been using the “house as a system” approach to diagnose the cause and origin of building defects.
For example, ice dams. These are often caused by warm air seeping into the attic which causes the snow and ice on the roof to melt. The water drains to the edge of the roof (which is colder than the rest of the roof because it is an overhang and not warmed by the attic), freezes and creates an ice dam. As this process is repeated daily, the ice dam grows larger. Eventually water is forced under a shingle where it can seep into the house.
Understanding how the house behaves as a system and the various causes and effects is necessary to diagnose most building related problems.
But how about that attic mold? How did it get there?
Mold requires chronic moisture to form and to thrive, so source(s) of moisture must be present. Possibly the moisture came from outdoors. The roof is newer and a quick check of the roof shows no obvious damage or leaks.
Possibly the moisture came from indoors. During the heating season, the interior of the house frequently has high moisture levels, especially bathrooms and kitchens. A quick check shows that all bathroom fans, kitchen vents, etc. are properly ducted completely outdoors and not into the attic. The amount of insulation looks good and the attic is well ventilated.
Don’t give up – you are almost there! Remember the house as a system? You know that warm, moist air is in the house, but how is it getting into the attic?
By air leaks! Air leaks are the leading source of energy loss in most houses, and a frequent source of chronic moisture that can cause attic mold. Most homeowners are well aware of air leaks around windows and doors (especially old ones), but many overlook the numerous gaps leading directly into the attic!
Have a look around the attic and you may find large gaps around recessed lights and fans, holes where wires or pipes are installed, even large gaps around the chimney. And don’t overlook the whole house fan and especially the folding attic stair - a big, uninsulated hole in your ceiling that is often overlooked!
These gaps can add up to a large hole that allows warm, moist air from the house to flow right into the cold attic. The warm moist air condenses on the cold roof sheathing, creating chronically damp conditions that can lead to attic mold growth. And the energy loss – it can be like leaving a window open all winter long!
Seal these air leaks and you stop a significant moisture source. And just think of all the energy you can save and the cold drafts you can stop!
About The Author
Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and a fireplace draftstopper. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com.
mark@batticdoor.com
by: Mark D. Tyrol, P.E.
It happens to countless homeowners around the end of the year – you make the annual visit to your attic to collect the holiday decorations and what do you find? Spots and blotches covering the bottom of the roof sheathing. Worse yet – it turns out to be attic mold!
What does energy conservation have to do with mold in the attic? Well if you take a step back and consider how the house behaves as system, they are often directly related.
Building science experts have long been using the “house as a system” approach to diagnose the cause and origin of building defects.
For example, ice dams. These are often caused by warm air seeping into the attic which causes the snow and ice on the roof to melt. The water drains to the edge of the roof (which is colder than the rest of the roof because it is an overhang and not warmed by the attic), freezes and creates an ice dam. As this process is repeated daily, the ice dam grows larger. Eventually water is forced under a shingle where it can seep into the house.
Understanding how the house behaves as a system and the various causes and effects is necessary to diagnose most building related problems.
But how about that attic mold? How did it get there?
Mold requires chronic moisture to form and to thrive, so source(s) of moisture must be present. Possibly the moisture came from outdoors. The roof is newer and a quick check of the roof shows no obvious damage or leaks.
Possibly the moisture came from indoors. During the heating season, the interior of the house frequently has high moisture levels, especially bathrooms and kitchens. A quick check shows that all bathroom fans, kitchen vents, etc. are properly ducted completely outdoors and not into the attic. The amount of insulation looks good and the attic is well ventilated.
Don’t give up – you are almost there! Remember the house as a system? You know that warm, moist air is in the house, but how is it getting into the attic?
By air leaks! Air leaks are the leading source of energy loss in most houses, and a frequent source of chronic moisture that can cause attic mold. Most homeowners are well aware of air leaks around windows and doors (especially old ones), but many overlook the numerous gaps leading directly into the attic!
Have a look around the attic and you may find large gaps around recessed lights and fans, holes where wires or pipes are installed, even large gaps around the chimney. And don’t overlook the whole house fan and especially the folding attic stair - a big, uninsulated hole in your ceiling that is often overlooked!
These gaps can add up to a large hole that allows warm, moist air from the house to flow right into the cold attic. The warm moist air condenses on the cold roof sheathing, creating chronically damp conditions that can lead to attic mold growth. And the energy loss – it can be like leaving a window open all winter long!
Seal these air leaks and you stop a significant moisture source. And just think of all the energy you can save and the cold drafts you can stop!
About The Author
Mark D. Tyrol is a Professional Engineer specializing in cause and origin of construction defects. He developed several residential energy conservation products including an attic stair cover and a fireplace draftstopper. To learn more visit www.batticdoor.com.
mark@batticdoor.com
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